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Hopefully my brain retains this after I fall asleep while on auto play

Hi @Cleversolarpower, this is Grandpa Emil, one of your avid subscribers in the Philippines. Will it be possible to make a YT video about the proper way of charging and discharging powerstations? I am currently using a Pecron E1500LFP and since I pretty much would like to make the batteries last longer, I would want to know the proper way of charging/discharging/storing it. There are several schools of thought on this matter which, instead of helping me, sadly, it made my brain explode: (1) Some experts suggest to maintain at least 20% of its battery capacity before charging/topping it again for the next use. In relation to this, will it affect the one (1) cycle count if, say, I re-charge it back to 100% from 20% remaining viz zero percent because from what I've read, generally, a cycle is depleting the battery from 100% to 0%. (2) On the other hand, some would advice to charge/top it to just around to 80% (not 100%) before its next use. (3) Still, other experts would suggest that when storing LFP powerstaions, charge it between 40% to 50%. Then use it after 3 months of storage to maintain its battery life (roughly 3500+ battery cycles). That said, based on your experience and hopefully thru actual tests concerning the same, can you please provide us in one of your future videos the proper way of charging/discharging/storing powerstations with LFP batteries or any other battery chemistry, for that matter? Thank you.

Since solar panels rarely, if ever, actually reach peak wattage, do you actually need to size the controller based on max wattage? I understand designing for the maximum conditions but...

Excellent information of Solar system design

I live in a snow belt in a semi-rural area of 20 acre lots. When the power goes off we are low on the list because of low population density. All I want is to live comfortably when the power goes off. I do have natural gas which never goes out but running just one of my two trifuel portable generators 24 - 7 is not a good idea considering wear and tear and fuel cost. I am installing 12,000 watts of battery backup so that I only have to run generstors a couble hours a day when the power is down. Next year I will put in 2400 watts of solar to run some of my usage year round which Which should cover the solar cost in 4 years and the battery backup in another 6 years. Basically it will be an insurance policy to be able to live comfortably during outages that will pay for itself over time.

High frequency inverters have problems with inductive loads and load balancing. So if you have more loads on one 120v leg or you run a power saw, these inverters can shut down on you. So you end up having to over-size your system to compensate and end up paying 10x as much, as compared to a low frequency inverter. It’s annoying that we don’t see any all-in-one outdoor rated low frequency inverters on the market, and it seems when manufacturers address that, they move to high frequency models, which will have the same issue with load balancing and induction.

Hi frequency inverter is not reliable for every day use, unless it's a very good brand.

No, I have the right sizes. What I want to know is the wires coming from the Controller connect to which Battery terminals. Then the wires going from the Battery to the Inverter are connected to which Terminals on the Battery. I have four 300W panels connected to the Controller. Then from the Controller to the Battery's. Then from the Battery's to the Inverter. As it should be. I want to use the fan model as in the "Better." You have all the Positive Leads connected to a single point then a wire going "out" to the Inverter? All the Negative Terminal wires connect to a single point, then a wire going out to the inverter from that point, but no diagram of the Negative wire coming in from the Controller. All the Positive Terminal wires also connect to single Positive point then a wire going out to the Inverter from that point, but no diagram of the Positive wire coming in from the Controller.

Not sure why you are stuck on 100Amps being a max for a system. The main limitation on LiFePO4 batteries is often the BMS that the manufacturer uses. Most of these battery cell can handle 3-5C with some being able to handle 10C at 100%DoD for 3000 cycles or 80%DoD for 5000+ cycles. So if the battery has a BMS that is able to handle it, 3000 watts on a single 100ah 200ah or 300ah 12v unit is nothing. My current home system uses a 12Kw inverter on a 51.2v nominal system that can surge to 36KW for 10 seconds and I have been just fine running on 450Ah of battery capacity for several years with standard 00AWG wire for the 2 battery connections to the busbar and 0000AWG from the busbar to the inverter. The BMS in each battery is capable of 220Amps continuous and 550Amp peak surge current. I will eventually be adding 560Ah more capacity in the near future but that is to allow for several more days of cloudy weather and not because the inverter needs it.

Great video! I do have a unique scenario which could use some expert advice if you don't mind. I have an off grid 2200 watt system which I am installing DIY. The issues I am having are firstly how do I connect the system in such a way that the mini split system is able to run as long as the system is generating energy. I have been told to connect the main wire from the solar to the inverter then panel while having the mini split wired to the panel as well. I then will have two 24 volt LiTime 200 amp batteries in series creating 48 volts connected to the 48 v. EG4 inverter as backup / evening usage. My other smaller solar system is separate and runs all lights etc. This system is primarily for mini split power, refrigerator and any other larger watt appliances I may use on occasion. Any help would be much appreciated! Lastly, I have purchased everything already other than the combined controller and was thinking of buying the EG4 3kW Off-Grid Inverter | 3000EHV-48 | 3000W Output | 5000W PV Input | 500 VOC Input. Is this a good choice for what I am going for and staying on a budget? Thanks again!! :) signaturesolar.com/eg4-3kw-off-grid-inverter-3000ehv-48/

Hi. Live your videos. I am including begin building a 36 volt solar system. Can you make a video that examples a 36 volt build?

I have a 3500w 12v inverter on a shelf in my shed. It's huge. I don't use it.. been sitting there for years. If line to see a proper run down if the growatt 12kw transformer inverter. I have one here still in it's box

I just get the biggest of everything I can. I have a 12kw transformer inverter in fitting soon and currently 20kw of 48v battery. The inverter in using now is only 5.6kw. not enough. I will need to up size the battery to at least 50kw to make it worthwhile. I also have one victron rs450/100tr charge controller to start with. I'll be going with 120mm2 cable and 300a nt2 blade fuse. During any blackouts I can sell energy to the neighbours. At a free market rate of course😂

Why not get a 12v compressor fridge?

Your videos are awesome!

U didn't mention the Amp's rating and Voltage rating of the hybrid system.. what will the exact output .. Does amp's multiply or not and what about voltage.. I'm trying to understand what the exact reading will be for my 12.92 amp's & 44.88 voltage per panel with a hybrid system of 10 panels ..

What happened to sunday on the graph?

Excellent, Thank you so much!

Only use lugs that cost at least one dollar... "I think I have an idea for profitability!" - knockoff amazon seller

I need to know the wiring "in" from the Controller, then the wiring "out" to the Inverter. No-body shows that.

Good for me I have listened to many videos I fund your explanation better thanks

1 His Fridge Consumes 75Wats/Hour, 1 Panel Top Output 100 Wats At Top Sun 🌞, So At Around 3 Panels You Should Have Enough To Run Through The Rest Of The Day, Yet Not Over The Night! 2 More Panels, So 5 In Total Would Compensate For Storage For Night Time!

Best video i ever saw😅

Very informative 😮 Thanks.

I have an old VW camper frig in my Vw van, I started with 100watts and 1 battery, ended up with 200watts and 3 batteries, works great (and a 20 amp charge controller).

Awesome man

Hello I’m looking for a system that can power 2500 watts continuously for 12 hours what do you guys recommend??

dude your units are misleading kWH? sheesh buddy, you are off by a country mile

I liked this one! I couldn't find anything serious to critique this time. I'd just add, on spec'ing cable amperages, even if the insulation can handle high temps you still don't want high temps in your system for a variety of reasons. Most prominently, voltage drop and thermal cycling causing connections to loosen over time. Under-sizing cables is mainly a legacy 12V issue where people with 12V systems just couldn't afford super-huge 4/0 cabling to handle the currents they wanted to work with. It is entirely unnecessary on a 24V or 48V system. So always use 60C or "AWG for power transmission" tables in higher-voltage systems. -Matt

silly to use dc batteries and an inverter

Oversizing controller: I currently have a 230ah lithium battery in my camper and a Renogy 200 watt suitcase with the included 20 amp pwm controller. My near future plan is to go to 400 watts of panel and maybe 600 watts later down the road. Based on my current 200 watts of panels, would there be a problem with starting out with the Victron 100/50. Is that too low for the 100/50 to work? Thanks

melting cable, I learn this the hardway

Great information!

Thanks big boss for your devoted and educative lecture . Best regards . To carry out load analysis on a system with Switch mode power supply ( SMPS), Can one use the Amp and Voltage rating on the SMPS for load analysis. e.g adapter for laptop charging

Nice report👍

Why is it that everyone that does such explanations with using a 3000w inverter on 12v and suggesting cable size and fuses etc with the equation of 3000/12 fails to take into account that battery voltage when low or reaching BMS or inverter cut off may fall to 10v or even 9v. Cable, fuse, and even your 1.25 safety factor margin are out the window without taking the lower voltages into account. It's simple to say don't build such high powered 12v systems but there's situations such as in smaller recreational vehicles where 24v or 48v does not make sense.

Hello and thanks for letting us learn with you . I bought your book. And I'm been reading it and leaving a lot .

Seems most videos concentrate more on either 12v or 48v systems. A detailed 24v split phase system video for temporary home backup would be awesome.

What about soldering cheap lugs???

Very nice 👌 👍

Educative, i have learnt alot from you battery discharge explanation. It will sure help when i choose batteries for a setup. Thank you sir.

If the current for a setup is 214amp will 220amp fuse be ok ?

Good day sir, I have 2 250W solar panels and one tall tubular 12v 240ah battery and a 30A charge controller, I am using an egg incubator which runs 24/7 on AC 1000W inverter charger, my charge controller shows my usage 7A on average, sometimes it's not sufficient for my incubator and it turns off, so what could be the problem, please help on this regard.

Thank you, I already knew about string inverters and micro inverters........ thanks for the video...

very clear and direct.

Hi just found your channel while trying to learn solar power setup. I would like to ask if it is better to use 500 watts x 2 solar panel with around 500-800 watts of load for 12vdc pumps x3 all at around around 150 watts and growlight (220vac) at around 500 watts using inverter. Or watt do you suggest?

Good video easy to follow, in the formula for how long to charge how does it change when running 2x100ah batteries the same in parallel?

Struggling to understand how 2 represents 50% usage capacity and 1.25 is efficiency of 80%

Why not just use the victron mppt calculator that is on line, easy to use and it's accurate

W= A* V